Things to do in Ajloun and Umm Qais

Ajloun Castle

Towers, vaulted halls, a moat cut from the rock and a small exhibition. Go early or late in the day for soft light over the valley.

Forest trails

RSCN trails in the Ajloun Forest Reserve include short loops near the lodge and longer guided walks to villages; book guided trails in advance through RSCN.

Umm Qais (Gadara)

West Theatre, colonnaded street, basilica terrace, the Ottoman village and museum, and the viewpoint over Lake Tiberias. Allow 1.5–2 hours.

Pella (Tabaqat Fahl)

Ruins of a Decapolis city spread over a valley with a spring; about 1 hour.

Jordan Trail day hikes

Sections 101–104 of the Jordan Trail cross this region from Umm Qais to Ajloun through olive groves and oak forest.

Village experiences

Around the Ajloun Forest Reserve, RSCN and local cooperatives run small community projects: a soap workshop using olive oil, a biscuit house, calligraphy and a farm visit. They make good stops on forest walks and keep tourism money in the villages.

Mar Elias (Tell Mar Elias)

Near Ajloun, the hilltop ruins of a large Byzantine church are associated with the prophet Elijah, believed to have come from nearby Listib (Tishbe). It is a Christian pilgrimage site with mosaic fragments and views over the hills.

A day in the north

Where to eat

The Umm Qais rest house serves lunch on a terrace overlooking the Sea of Galilee; roadside restaurants around Ajloun grill meat and serve fresh bread, salads and local olive oil. In season, stop at farm stalls for figs, grapes and pomegranates.

Ajloun Forest Reserve in practice

Established by RSCN in 1987, the reserve covers about 12 km² of rolling hills between roughly 600 and 1,100 m. Woodland of evergreen oak, wild pistachio, carob and strawberry tree shelters roe deer (reintroduced), wild boar, foxes and many birds. Short self-guided trails start near the visitor centre; longer routes, such as the walks to the nearby village workshops or towards Ajloun Castle, are guided and should be booked through RSCN in advance. As of November 2026 the Jordan Tourism Board lists the entry for foreign visitors at JD 8 plus 16% tax.

Run by

Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN)

Size

About 12 km², 600–1,100 m above sea level

Entry

JD 8 + 16% tax for foreign visitors

Best seasons

March–May and October–November

Umm Qais: what to look for

• West Theatre: built of black basalt, with seats facing the valley.
• Basilica terrace: an octagonal church on a platform with basalt columns.
• Decumanus: the main street, still paved with original stones.
• Ottoman village: restored stone houses, including Beit Rousan, now the museum.
• Viewpoint: across the Yarmouk gorge to the Golan Heights and, on clear days, the Sea of Galilee.

Remember the border note above: stay on the main archaeological site and the village, and do not wander towards the Yarmouk valley.

A two-day northern loop

• Day 1: Amman → Jerash at opening time → Ajloun Castle in the afternoon → night in a farm stay or RSCN cabin.
• Day 2: a morning walk in the forest reserve → Umm Qais for lunch with a view → Pella on the way down to the Jordan Valley → back to Amman or on to the Dead Sea.